October 25, 2010

What Women Want


If you ask a woman what she wants most in life, she would probably tell you that it is to have her own starring role in a fairy-tale romance complete with the knight-in-shining-armour and galloping white steed. Let’s face it, the days of the knights of the round table are long gone. These days the knight is more likely to be a beautiful, adoring man and the steed, a hot rod that makes some serious noise.

Nothing conjures up images of fairy-tale romance like castles, cobbled stone streets and horse-drawn carriages. By far the most romantic city I have ever been to in my young life so far is Québec City in Canada. Winter, spring, summer or fall the city is one of those rare, magical places that leaves you awe struck. It is home to Le Château Frontenac, a spectacular castle-hotel which has been consistently rated as one of the most romantic places to get married in Canada. Québec City is also renowned for its food. One of my favourite restaurants is a Parisian-style Bistro called Le Café du Monde. It is situated in a retro-looking, converted ferry terminal overlooking the St Lawrence River. The menu features classic French preparations of pâtés, duck confit, onion soup, smoked salmon tartare, and mussels or steak with frites served with a classic béarnaise sauce. I adore salmon tartare. It is one of those gifts to the palate – moist and succulent is fills the mouth with a surprising softness and is an authentic French-Canadian staple.

Parisian bistros are typically charming, intensely romantic dining experiences, very á la Moulin Rouge. The mood created at Le Café du Monde is reminiscent of la Belle Époque (1920’s beautiful era) with art deco style décor complete with red leather banquettes contrasted against white and black ceramic tiles in a checkerboard pattern. The wait staff add to the swanky vibe by donning black vests, immaculate white aprons and bowties.

Nestled at the foothills of posh Mount Street is one of Perth’s best kept secrets - our very own homage to Parisian-bistro chic in Restaurant Bouchard. I discovered Bouchard by accident one morning as I was running up Mount Street and stopped to tie up my shoe-lace. This sexed up gem reeks of cool and teases with its seductive interior. The food at Bouchard is bawdy and unapologetic. I went for lunch last week-end on a spectacular spring day with a sexy friend of mine. For starters we shared braised pig's head with black pudding and apple noisettes. Beautifully plated, the dish was sublime and gorgeous. Our pig’s head which looked like a golden croquette, was crowned by a spider web-shaped french fry giving it a modern twist and crunchy edge. For mains we had the Salmon Niçoise – a humble classic made spectacular by its presentation and mélange of fresh local beans, diced potatoes, baby tomatoes, white anchovies and olive tapenade accompanied by a crispy -skinned Atlantic salmon fillet cooked to pastel pink perfection. For dessert I was tempted by the crème brulée with peanut butter ice-cream, not exactly a classic French treat but a cheeky combination of flavours that work great together which made me smile.

Food at Bouchard is reasonably priced and the wine list extensive. Service was superb and we were treated to a crisp, Margaret River sauvignon blanc and home-made truffles by our delightful server. At Bouchard, you can’t help but feel as if you are in your own perfect, romantic hide-away without having to leave town. Bouchard delivers a dreamy dining experience day or night. If you are looking for a truly, love-struck evening go eat on their patio under the stars and try their fabulous dégustation menu- you may just leave starry-eyed.

Passion Rating ★★★★★
Food:★★★★★
Service:★★★★★
Ambiance:★★★★☆
Overall:★★★★☆


When you next go to Canada, try out some of my favourite Parisian-style bistros in Toronto at Le Sélect Bistro in Wellington St and in Ottawa at the Métropolitain Brasserie in the Byward Market. Bistro Le Continental in Montréal is also at the top of my list.

If you have never tried it, Parisian-bistro style cuisine is great to prepare for a romantic night in with your beloved. Here are two of my favourite classic Bistro recipes – Bon Appétit!

Confit de Canard (Duck Confit)

8 duck thighs (8)
150 g sea salt (1/3 lb)
8 bay leaves (8)
1 large pinch whole thyme (1)
2 L melted duck fat (8 ¼ cups)

The day before serving:

- Place the duck thighs in a shallow dish. Mix sea salt and thyme, then sprinkle over thighs, making sure they are well coated. Arrange bay leaves over thighs.

- Refrigerate for 24 hours.

The day of serving:

- Heat duck fat. Wipe thighs to remove excess spices. Discard bay leaves.

- Place thighs in very hot fat.

- Once the thighs have reached a golden colour, reduce heat and continue cooking for about 1 hour, or until thighs are tender.

- Let thighs cool in fat.

When serving:

- Heat the thighs in the fat and serve with diced potatoes fried in garlic.

Tartare de Saumon (Salmon Tartar)

240 g fresh salmon (½ lb)
240 g smoked salmon (½ lb)
4 egg yolks (4)
30 ml chopped onions (2 tbsp)
30 ml chopped capers (2 tbsp)
8 drops Worcestershire sauce (8)
4 drops Tabasco sauce (4)
juice of 1 lemon or lime

- Chop the fresh and smoked salmon by hand or in a food processor. Do not chop too thinly.

- Mix the fresh and smoked salmon, egg yolks, onions, capers, Worcestershire sauce, Tabasco sauce and lemon or lime juice.

- Adjust seasonings before serving this delicious dish!

October 21, 2010

From Paris with Love



There’s a hot, new Frenchman in town that has people salivating. Jean-Pierre Sancho, Perth’s first real ‘boulangerie’ has opened its doors at 878 Hay St in the CBD. It’s got quite the illustrious history and has Perth city slickers lining up around the block from about 7am to get their hit of buttery, French pastries and sweets. Looking at them as I drove by they reminded me of the golden ticket winners in Roald Dahl’s famous children’s book Charlie and the Chocolate Factory waiting outside the factory gates to meet the reclusive candy-man Willy Wonka.

Jean-Pierre Sancho’s Boulangerie is an attack on the senses. The smell of freshly baked bread is the first thing that envelops you as you enter the place. It’s also a visual feast. Towers of wholemeal, sourdough, olive, rye, ‘fougasse’, ‘paillasse’, ‘ficelle’ and ‘baguettes ‘ are piled high behind the counter. The ‘viennoisserie’ section is home to a rainbow of lavender, mint and pink macaroons, brioches, chocolate and raisin ‘escargots’, ‘amandines’ (croissant filled with almond paste and sprinkled with toasted almonds and icing sugar), pastel-coloured mousse cakes, chocolate and fruit-laden flans, quiches and sandwiches laid out enticingly in glass-enclosed display cases.

Being in Jean-Pierre’s boulangerie took me on a trip down memory lane. The kaleidoscope of scents, sights and sounds transported me back to a trip to I took to Paris ten years ago. I remembered strolling along the river Seine feeling my soul and loins stir in one of the most romantic cities in the world.

It is a proven fact that as human beings, smell can trigger memories. Amazing to me is how the smell, sight, sound and taste of Jean-Pierre Sancho’s boulangerie had connected me intimately to my past. The contrasting textures and flavours of my crunchy organic, sour-dough baguette against the velvety smoked salmon and tartness of pickled caper berries teased my palate and brought back vivid images of the Sacré-Coeur, the artists’ quarter in Montmartre and walking down the Champs Elysée on a beautiful spring day. The coffee was just as good as the food. Smooth and robust it had the perfect amount of creaminess and pulsed through my veins in a blaze of glory.

French is arguably one of the most romantic languages in the world and let’s face it chicks dig guys that speak French. Enhancing my out-of-body experience were the waiters at Jean-Pierre Sancho who did not disappoint and delivered my order with the right amount of French chic and only a sprinkle of ‘cheese’. Jean-Pierre Sancho is the ultimate French experience and even if I am not hungry I would go back just to listen to the language of love and practice my French.

When you visit Jean-Pierre Sancho, you must go equipped with some phrases to help you have a full service get-away. Having several easy flirting phrases in the French language memorised may even give you more confidence as you participate in your first French conversation. Here are some suggestions:

  • Tu es mignon/mignonne. You are cute!
  • Tu as des beaux yeux. You have beautiful eyes.
  • J'aime votre rire. I like your laugh.
  • Vous êtes plus beau/belle que les étoiles. You are more beautiful than the stars.
  • Est-ce que tous (toutes) les Parisien(ne)s sont aussi charmant(e)s que vous? Are all Parisians (Canadians, French) as charming as you?
  • Tu t'en vas déjà? You're leaving already?

Obviously, just dropping one of these phrases randomly into a conversation isn't really flirting. It's all in how you say it and when you use it. Bonne chance!

P
assion Rating★★★★★
Food:
★★
★★
Service:★★

Ambiance:★★

Overall:★★★




October 12, 2010

Snack on Spanish sausage in style at Pata Negra



I have never been to Spain and I have never dated a Spaniard. This is quite astonishing given my unconscious attraction to tall, Spanish-looking men that has made me the target of many a giggle from my girlfriends who rib me for being attracted to guys who look like carbon copies of each other. They are partly right although I would like to think that maturity has brought about some evolution in my tastes. I will never forget my Canadian university sweetheart who looked so much like Ricky Martin that teenage girls at the public pool where he was a life-guard used to bring in Ricky Martin CDs for him to sign. But really, I don’t believe my attraction to Hispanic features to be anything out-of-the-ordinary. I imagine Spanish men would be a fantasy for most women on the planet. Wouldn’t they?

To be honest when I think of Spanish food I experience a similar fervor. Maybe it’s because my mind gets hooked on the image of a Spanish Matador or, the fact that I begin to salivate as if on cue at the thought of cured ‘serrano’ hams and spicy ‘chorizo’ sausages washed down with a glass of ruby-coloured ‘sangria’. Whichever way you slice it, Spanish food is ballsy, exciting and pushes you out of your comfort zone.

One of the most lauded Spanish tapas restaurants in Perth at the moment is a place called Pata Negra (“Black Leg”) in Nedlands. Housed in a semi residential zone on the corner of Bruce St and Stirling Highway, Pata Negra is David Coomer’s latest contribution to the Perth food scene. A member of Perth Foodie glitterati, David gained his fame with the highly successful Star Anise in Shenton Park so my expectations were high.

In true Spanish style, Pata Negra is a spectacular restaurant. Rich, sumptuous hues of burgundy, chocolate and black are lit up by amber-coloured candle votives giving you the feeling of having entered Aladdin’s cave. Stylish red and tobacco leathered chairs and banquettes fill the space to give the restaurant a warm, Santa Fe–type vibe. However, what hits you most as you walk into the restaurant is the pungent smell of cured meats. At Pata Negra they cure their own meats and sausages right on the premises. These hunks of meat are on display and serve as a reminder that you really are getting your meat fresh.

The menu at Pata Negra is centered around tapas, a selection of small dishes to be shared at the table. So what are tapas? Tapas are in my opinion, one of Spain’s greatest food inventions. Tapas to the Spaniards are like Dim Sum to the Chinese. They are snacks, canapés or finger food. They can be practically anything from a chunk of tuna, cocktail onion and an olive skewered on a long toothpick, to meat with sauce served piping hot in a miniature clay dish. In Spain, they are served in every bar and café. Tapas have become so much a part of the culture and social scene that the Spanish people invented the verb 'tapear' which means to go and eat tapas.

We began our meal grazing on some zataar-smeared mountain bread and smoked and spiced almonds (‘zaatar’ is a blend of mixed herbs including oregano, sumac, basil thyme and sesame seeds). The mountain bread came out warm and the heady scent of oregano sent my olfactory system into a tailspin. Zaatar kind of smells like marijuana when it’s heated up. The smoked almonds were addictive. My friend and I were in the mood for meat so we chose a few classics in a platter of Serrano ham, some ‘chorizo al sidra’ and a duck liver parfait served with caramelized onions. The ham was sliced thin, pink and translucent, the chorizo gutsy and the duck liver parfait so authentic in flavour that I almost shed a nostalgic tear thinking about my favourite ‘foie-gras’ restaurant in Old Montr
éal, Garde-Manger.

For something a little more substantial we ordered a duck ‘confit’ served like a ‘cassoulet’ with tomato, chorizo and white beans. Given the Hollywood experience of the other dishes, this was quite ho-hum. The duck was dry and the flavours insipid. The saving grace was a plate of sautéed asparagus sprinkled with garlic breadcrumbs and poached egg. Fresh, textured and earthy this dish was an unadulterated pleasure. The essence of Spanish cuisine is great produce, prepared simply with robust flavours. True to form, this dish made the asparagus the hero. Despite our bellies bursting we could not go past a serve of hot doughnuts rolled in cinnamon and sugar and raisin ice-cream with a hint of rum. This simple and elegant dessert was the perfect ending to our meal.

Just when you think it can’t get any better, Pata Negra has a fantastic wine list and killer cocktails based on Spanish style liqueurs and spirits. Despite the lofty price-tag of most of the dishes, the portions are reasonably substantial and pack a punch in the flavour stakes. I may not have travelled to Spain, nor dated one of its countrymen but as far as food goes Pata Negra is a celebration of the best food that Spain has to offer right at our back door. It is a gift that keeps on giving.

Passion Rating★★★★★
Food:★★
Service:★★

Ambiance:★★★★

Overall:★★★

For more affordable, home-style tapas, head down to the kooky Gypsy Tapas House Restaurant in Fremantle. Reserve a table in the “Gypsy’s Caravan” and enjoy being served unlimited tapas by dread-locked, granola-munching hippies. On Friday and Saturday nights they clear out the tables and make room for salsa dancers. A quirky first date experience that will give you something to talk about.


October 7, 2010

On the hunt for sexy time with truffles!

"Whoever says truffle, utters a grand word, which awakens erotic and gastronomic ideas....."

I have long had a fascination with truffles. Not the chocolate truffles but the prized fungus variety known for an extravagant price tag (up to $9000US a kilo in Europe) and by being unearthed by trained pedigree sniffer pigs. You might think I am joking, but there are those foodies who are so truffle-obsessed that they talk about the excitement of smelling fresh black truffles as “better than having an orgasm”. In Italy, it makes national headlines when the price of truffles goes up. Believe it or not there is a similar level of interest in Australia. A recent article in the Sydney Morning Herald headlined that the “price of Italian white truffles soars”. It asked the million dollar question keeping die-hard Australian foodies up at night - How were gourmets going to cope with having to dig even deeper for “white gold” -the strong, garlicky-scented delicacy that they usually shave into pasta, salads and omelettes?

So, what is it about the truffle that has everyone going wild? Truffles are known as legendary aphrodisiacs of ancient Rome. It is believed - although yet to be confirmed by modern science - that truffles' musky scent replicates the scent of the male pheromone androstenone. Even Napoleon ate truffles to increase his masculine potency. The heady scent and dirty flavour of them is said to stimulate the senses and put you in the mood for love.

We are most fortunate in our sunshine state. The South West of Western Australia is ideal for truffle orchards, as it is similar to the natural growing environment of the Bordeaux Region in Southern France and is becoming famous around the globe for the black truffles available from the harvest between May and August. Truffle prices are still exorbitant but at least we have easier access to satisfy our lustful cravings for fresh, local truffles.

In Manjimup, The Wine and Truffle Co. (http://wineandtruffle.com.au) is the largest producer of fresh truffles in the southern hemisphere, with over 13,000 hazel and oak trees. It is a must see on my itinerary every time I go down south for a quick reprieve from my hectic corporate day job. The Wine & Truffle Co is one of the few truffières in the world where you can participate in the excitement of a guided “truffle hunt”. Even though you don’t usually find anything, it is still a load of fun to be lulled into the feigned sense that you might just get lucky. I liken the experience to panning for gold in Kalgoorlie. You know that your chances of finding gold are close to zilch but you still do it with a faint hope at the back of your mind that maybe, just maybe, you could strike it rich.

My sister-in-law and I decided we wanted to go on a girl date and do something special to help us bond as new sisters. We had both been hearing about all the truffle festivals but didn’t want to travel three hours to experience them. Our mission - to go on the hunt for a local truffle dining destination guaranteed to deliver. If you didn’t know it already, the sooty flavour of truffles goes really well with eggs. We found a write-up on a new restaurant in Victoria Park called The Silver Spoon (http://thesilverspoon.net.au) that boasted a breakfast of either a 3-egg omelette with truffle, pecorino, mushroom & spinach or, Mt. Cook smoked salmon with truffle scrambled eggs, spinach & Turkish bread. Sold!

The Silver Spoon Restaurant is a sleek, modern Australian bistro and a welcome addition to the Victoria Park strip which is not traditionally known for its über hip vibe or coolness. It is open for trading Tuesday to Sunday for lunch and dinner but only offers a breakfast on the week-end between 8 and 12. We both ordered the truffle scrambled eggs and had high expectations. The dish that was presented looked like an overpromise that had failed to deliver. I was expecting a mound of golden, fluffy scrambled eggs set atop with lashings of shaved black truffle and contrasted against the deep green of barely wilted spinach and pink, fleshy swathes of fresh smoked salmon. Instead, an Ebenezer Scrooge size portion of ungarnished scrambled eggs were presented with a couple of spinach leaves, a thumbnail of smoked salmon and a pointy slice of toasted, Turkish bread saturated in oil. The dish redeemed itself based on flavor. The hint of truffle oil the chef had used in the scramble eggs made it a star. I closed my eyes and waited for my erotic experience – the flavour was earthy, musty and pungent but I can’t say it got me in a sexy mood. Maybe I just didn’t eat enough of it!

Given the $20 price tag I definitely expected more of the dish but will be hard pressed to return to making scrambled eggs without using truffle oil in the future. And with the promise of being rocked into another sexual orbit, I will definitely be going back for more. There’s a big divide amongst truffle afficionados about turning to truffle oil instead of using the real deal. For some gastronomes and chefs, truffle oil is argued as the most cost-effective way to enhance a dish with the flavour of the indigenous truffles. For others, it is simply garbage. For my sister-in-law and I discovering how to pimp our scrambled eggs with truffle oil was all about eating sexy and definitely worth the trip.

Passion Rating★★★★★
Food:★★★☆☆
Service:★★☆☆☆
Ambiance:★★★★☆

Overall:★★★☆☆

Here’s a great recipe for you to try for yourself courtesy of Marg Johnson who was inspired by a recent trip to the Mundaring Truffle Festival:

Scrambled Eggs with Truffle (Serves 2)
6 eggs
1/2 cup cream or use milk if preferred
salt and freshly ground black pepper
30g butter
2 slices sour dough bread or brioche, grilled or toasted
1 small truffle (about 20 gms), finely shredded or 2 tablespoons of truffle oil
2 tbsp flat leaf parsley, roughly chopped

If time permits place the truffle in with the eggs for a day or two. This allows the perfume to permeate the eggs. Then lightly beat the eggs with a fork just enough to break up the eggs. Add the cream and seasoning. Heat a non-stick fry pan to only moderately hot and add the butter. Pour in the egg mixture. When the mixture starts to set on the bottom, carefully scrape this off the bottom, letting more liquid egg run into its place. Add half of the shredded truffle at this stage. Continue in this way until there is only a small amount of the liquid mixture left. Remove the eggs from the heat at this point. Turn the eggs out onto the hot toast/ brioche and serve with a scatter of truffle and parsley. There will be enough heat left in the eggs to complete the cooking and you will have beautiful tender curds with no puddle and the most sublime scatter of truffle.