Snack on Spanish sausage in style at Pata Negra

I have never been to Spain and I have never dated a Spaniard. This is quite astonishing given my unconscious attraction to tall, Spanish-looking men that has made me the target of many a giggle from my girlfriends who rib me for being attracted to guys who look like carbon copies of each other. They are partly right although I would like to think that maturity has brought about some evolution in my tastes. I will never forget my Canadian university sweetheart who looked so much like Ricky Martin that teenage girls at the public pool where he was a life-guard used to bring in Ricky Martin CDs for him to sign. But really, I don’t believe my attraction to Hispanic features to be anything out-of-the-ordinary. I imagine Spanish men would be a fantasy for most women on the planet. Wouldn’t they?

To be honest when I think of Spanish food I experience a similar fervor. Maybe it’s because my mind gets hooked on the image of a Spanish Matador or, the fact that I begin to salivate as if on cue at the thought of cured ‘serrano’ hams and spicy ‘chorizo’ sausages washed down with a glass of ruby-coloured ‘sangria’. Whichever way you slice it, Spanish food is ballsy, exciting and pushes you out of your comfort zone.

One of the most lauded Spanish tapas restaurants in Perth at the moment is a place called Pata Negra (“Black Leg”) in Nedlands. Housed in a semi residential zone on the corner of Bruce St and Stirling Highway, Pata Negra is David Coomer’s latest contribution to the Perth food scene. A member of Perth Foodie glitterati, David gained his fame with the highly successful Star Anise in Shenton Park so my expectations were high.

In true Spanish style, Pata Negra is a spectacular restaurant. Rich, sumptuous hues of burgundy, chocolate and black are lit up by amber-coloured candle votives giving you the feeling of having entered Aladdin’s cave. Stylish red and tobacco leathered chairs and banquettes fill the space to give the restaurant a warm, Santa Fe–type vibe. However, what hits you most as you walk into the restaurant is the pungent smell of cured meats. At Pata Negra they cure their own meats and sausages right on the premises. These hunks of meat are on display and serve as a reminder that you really are getting your meat fresh.

The menu at Pata Negra is centered around tapas, a selection of small dishes to be shared at the table. So what are tapas? Tapas are in my opinion, one of Spain’s greatest food inventions. Tapas to the Spaniards are like Dim Sum to the Chinese. They are snacks, canapés or finger food. They can be practically anything from a chunk of tuna, cocktail onion and an olive skewered on a long toothpick, to meat with sauce served piping hot in a miniature clay dish. In Spain, they are served in every bar and café. Tapas have become so much a part of the culture and social scene that the Spanish people invented the verb 'tapear' which means to go and eat tapas.

We began our meal grazing on some zataar-smeared mountain bread and smoked and spiced almonds (‘zaatar’ is a blend of mixed herbs including oregano, sumac, basil thyme and sesame seeds). The mountain bread came out warm and the heady scent of oregano sent my olfactory system into a tailspin. Zaatar kind of smells like marijuana when it’s heated up. The smoked almonds were addictive. My friend and I were in the mood for meat so we chose a few classics in a platter of Serrano ham, some ‘chorizo al sidra’ and a duck liver parfait served with caramelized onions. The ham was sliced thin, pink and translucent, the chorizo gutsy and the duck liver parfait so authentic in flavour that I almost shed a nostalgic tear thinking about my favourite ‘foie-gras’ restaurant in Old Montréal, Garde-Manger.

For something a little more substantial we ordered a duck ‘confit’ served like a ‘cassoulet’ with tomato, chorizo and white beans. Given the Hollywood experience of the other dishes, this was quite ho-hum. The duck was dry and the flavours insipid. The saving grace was a plate of sautéed asparagus sprinkled with garlic breadcrumbs and poached egg. Fresh, textured and earthy this dish was an unadulterated pleasure. The essence of Spanish cuisine is great produce, prepared simply with robust flavours. True to form, this dish made the asparagus the hero. Despite our bellies bursting we could not go past a serve of hot doughnuts rolled in cinnamon and sugar and raisin ice-cream with a hint of rum. This simple and elegant dessert was the perfect ending to our meal.

Just when you think it can’t get any better, Pata Negra has a fantastic wine list and killer cocktails based on Spanish style liqueurs and spirits. Despite the lofty price-tag of most of the dishes, the portions are reasonably substantial and pack a punch in the flavour stakes. I may not have travelled to Spain, nor dated one of its countrymen but as far as food goes Pata Negra is a celebration of the best food that Spain has to offer right at our back door. It is a gift that keeps on giving.

Passion Rating★★★★★

Food:★★★★☆
Service:★★★★☆
Ambiance:★★★★★
Overall:★★★★☆

For more affordable, home-style tapas, head down to the kooky Gypsy Tapas House Restaurant in Fremantle. Reserve a table in the “Gypsy’s Caravan” and enjoy being served unlimited tapas by dread-locked, granola-munching hippies. On Friday and Saturday nights they clear out the tables and make room for salsa dancers. A quirky first date experience that will give you something to talk about.