An Italian Love Affair

“If only but one day I do not meet you, There is no place where I can find delight; But if I see you, then I want to eat you, For one who starves must sate his appetite” –Michelangelo

My first Italian love affair was unforgettable. His name was Paolo and he was a deadly hunk of a man. Dark wavy hair, tanned skin, chocolate eyes with lashes they went on for miles and a killer colgate smile with fleshy, pouty lips. As soon as I met him I knew I was in trouble. I was only 16 at the time and on student exchange in Mantua, Italy. If you didn’t know it already, Mantua is the home of Romeo as in Shakespeare’s tale of star-crossed lovers Romeo and Juliet. I am happy to say that my love story was just as passionate but thankfully not as tragic.

There’s nothing quite like the backdrop of a medieval city to set the mood for love – love for Paolo, love for the city, the culture, the people and above all, for his mother Adriana’s food. Between Paolo’s amorous advances and his mother’s cooking I had all the signs of being in love - flushed cheeks, a racing heart beat and clammy hands while inside my body there were some definite chemical signs that cupid had fired his arrow. I realised years later that the dizzy feelings I had experienced around Paolo had more to do with the anticipation of devouring Adriana’s heart-thumping meatballs than going on his promised magic love ride.

Unlike Paolo, one Perth restaurant that is guaranteed to deliver on its promise is Perugino Restaurant (www.perugino.com.au) in West Perth. Speaking to chef Giuseppe Pagliaricci you just know that he is going to take you somewhere special – as he will tell you “I am driven by the passion to create and do something poetic with my cooking”. I haven’t been to Perugino for almost ten years so I was curious to find out whether it had been able to sustain its past glory.

To kick off the evening, my buddy and I inhaled our delectable amuse bouche – a roast veal and endive salad sprinkled with bright orange nasturtium leaves. We popped the cork on a bottle of Laurent Pierre champagne – the floating bubbles tickled my nose and throat and made me giddy. For entrée, we shared an orgasmic experience – homemade duck ravioli with a puréed pumpkin and burnt butter sauce. The ravioli were soft and looked like miniature pillows and were stuffed with a pungent gamey centre. The wild flavour of the duck was tempered by the delicate creaminess of the pumpkin velouté. For our mains we shared rack of lamb encrusted with seasoned garlic and parmesan breadcrumbs, served with caramelized pomegranate-coloured figs and grilled dhufish seared in orange butter.

Giuseppe’s passion for food has certainly paid off and I was reminded yet again why he has won so many Gold Plate Awards. The meal was simple, elegant and heaven-sent. The décor at Perugino’s is classically European and floatingly romantic. It has the feeling of sitting in a conservatory and as you look up from your table, you can see the stars through the glass roof.

Despite its enchanting sleekness, the restaurant exudes the same warmth as you would expect if you were to walk into an Italian gourmet kitchen, with its open fireplace and ochred-terracotta tiled floors. The menu prices also reflect this modesty, which is rather paradoxical given the very chic location. What makes this experience even more authentic is the silver service trained staff fresh-off-the-boat speaking to you in their sexy Italian mother tongue.

In a recent poll conducted by Bon Appetit Magazine , it was discovered that readers liked eating more than doing the deed. An overwhelming 75.5% of those polled would give up sex for their favorite food. I can’t say that I would be one of the majority, but dining at Perugino I can certainly understand the inclination. If you and your loved one are looking to be titillated, Perugino is a blow-your-socks-off experience. Salute!

Passion Rating ★★★★★
Food:★★★★★
Service:★★★★★
Ambiance:★★★★★
Overall:★★★★★