Feed the Man Meat in Vancouver

Vancouver has topped the list as the world’s most liveable cities many times over. Known as the crown jewel of British Columbia, one step out of the plane and you can see why. Vancouver is flanked by two jaw dropping panoramas – a look to the west and you are able to marvel at the majesty of the snow-capped Rocky Mountains, a glance to the east draws you to towering green pine forests and the deep blue waters of the Pacific Ocean. Seafood is abundant and the temperate climate of the province creates the perfect conditions for year-round offerings of organic local produce such as forest fruit, asparagus, exotic mushrooms and local wine.

Canadians also love their meat particularly beef and chicken which they love to grill and barbeque. Enter any Canadian home and you will find an outdoor patio or yard complete with barbeque ready to grill winter, spring, summer and autumn. Consummate carnivores my partner and I really noticed this national fetish for all things meat in the plethora of fabulous new eateries popping up all over Vancouver offering a superb array of meat dishes. 

Recommended by our concierge at L’Hermitage, a luxurious boutique hotel in downtown Vancouver, we went for dinner to L’Abattoir (www.l’abattoir.ca) in the historic district of Gastown. The restaurant was built in the 19^th century and is the site of Vancouver’s first jail. The name L’Abattoir pays homage to the district’s colourful past. 

The restaurant has undergone a contemporary refurbishment and has made good use of wood, glass and steel finishes offset by the more classic white and black French tiles area on the ground floor. It also offers an elevated dining room with a green-house style glass roof. Food at L’Abattoir was gorgeous and tasty. The close attention to detail on every dish was evident right down to the bread basket which is definitely one of the best I have ever had.

Served in a bark basket, we were delivered warmed house-made cheese and bacon brioche, seeded lavosh and puff pastry twists smattered with anchovies and grated taleggio cheese. For entrée, we shared a beautiful dish of roasted foie gras with stonefruits poached in wine, thyme streusel and yoghurt mousse. Our main meals were equally elegant. The roast lamb loin and stewed shank with mint pistou and potato fritters was multi textured and provided a ripple of flavours in our mouths. The cool mint against the crunch of the potato fritters with a velvety sliver of rare, pink lamb was divine. We also enjoyed the more unassuming pork shoulder cooked in milk with turnips and salsa verde which was an honest dish but lacked the wow appeal of the lamb.

The dessert menu was overwhelming – I am normally hard pressed to find a dessert that entices me. At L’Abattoir I would have ordered every single one. We finally settled on apricot mousse with cherry sorbet, lemon meringue and sponge cake. The soft, fluffy mousse fizzled against our tongues and contrasted well with the sweetness of the cherry sorbet and the tanginess of the apricot and lemon meringue.

Next on our food adventure was to Yaletown one of Vancouver’s hippest districts and home to some of the city’s best restaurants. I love the area so much I came close to moving in to one of the many converted warehouse loft apartments before changing my mind and returning to Australia a couple of years ago. We had heard a lot about Flying Pig (theflyingpigvan.com) a funky little eatery, known for its AAA dry aged striploin and crispy brussel sprouts. I am usually not a big fan of sprouts but I am always ready to be converted. We ordered the steak as well as a side of brussel sprouts and matchstick potatoes. I couldn’t go past the T.F.P. Signature Pork Chop complete with a rendition of pulled pork poutine and apple cider jus.

For those of you who have never been to Canada, poutine is a national French Canadian made with French fries, topped with brown gravy and curd cheese. It is definitely an acquired taste, but you cannot leave Canada until you have at least given it a go. Over the last couple of years I have noticed the humble peasant poutine making a grand comeback with more sophisticated variations – chefs are making a star out of this dish.

Another trend in Vancouver was the  uses of jam jars for everything – to serve cocktails, desserts such as trifle, as vases to hold flowers and funky lighting creations.  Very quirky but adding to the granola, ‘tree-hugger’ vibe that is Vancouver. The menu at Flying Pig was fantastic, so many tempting choices with interesting twists. Our meal was homely and tasty but overall did not meet our expectations. The highlight for me had to be the fantastic crispy brussel sprouts, served in a little black and white checkered basket they were delicious!

To finish off our Vancouver adventure we couldn’t go past a long-time favourite of mine Cardero’s- We are fish, Chops & a Wok at Coal Harbour. The marine pub is situated on the waterfront at Coal Harbour and looks out to the Rocky Mountains. 

For starters we shared a classic - Forno Baked Flatbread with goat cheese, sundried tomato, onion and arugula. Served on a cedar plank this is a beautiful and delicious starter. It’s magic lies in its simplicity. Chargrilled, house-baked flatbread smothered in fresh, soft herb marinated goat cheese, dressed with raw purple onion, sundried tomatoes and vibrant, green arugula. For mains we both had the 16 oz "Bone In" Rib Steak served with organic market vegetables and local potatoes. Succulent, these steaks earned Vancouver a top destination for meat dining. We went back for a second round a few days later. 

For a quick lunch or snack other gems in Vancouver included a fabulous sandwich joint - The Dirty Apron or a stroll around the Granville Island Public Market for awesome local produce, charcuterie, artisanal breads and great locally roasted coffee. 

Overall, Vancouver is a fabulous city to visit - it offers world class dining, sensational produce and great flavours all with a touch of quirky playfulness. All this set against a spectacular natural setting. Best months of the year to go are between April and September. If you go in April you will catch the first buds of spring - pink and white scented cherry blossoms and the abundance of tulips in every colour line the streets and walkways. For me Vancouver remains one of my top 5 cities in the world.